The proliferation in natural and organic cosmetic standards continues

Despite Cosmos, Europe remains fragmented

Although the adoption rate of natural and organic cosmetic standards is the highest in Europe, the region is also the most fragmented in terms of seals and logos. Standards are mainly adopted on a national basis, with few transcending national boundaries. The Soil Association standard is almost exclusively adopted by UK companies, ICEA almost entirely by Italian companies, Cosmebio mostly by French companies, and BDIH predominantly in Germany.

In order to simplify and harmonise the certification schemes in Europe, the six leading certification bodies have introduced the Cosmos standard and the first certified products are expected this year. However, Organic Monitor deems that, since no common logo is planned, the new Cosmos standard “will not replace or unify the plethora of existing symbols and logos.”

Nevertheless, a strong asset of the Cosmos standard is the international coverage of one of its members: Ecocert. Originating in France, the standard has been adopted by companies in Greece, Denmark, Latvia, Brazil, India, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Australia. The Ecocert logo is becoming recognised as ‘the organic logo’ in some of these countries. “With the large number of licensees and certified products of Ecocert and its fellow Cosmos partners, Cosmos has the potential to become a de facto global standard,” adds the market research firm.

Natrue, the other European standard with international ambitions, now covers almost 1,400 products, but has its actual popularity limited to German-speaking countries where are based most of its 55 licensees. However, contrarily to Ecocert and its Cosmos fellows, Natrue is making inroads in North America.

Competition increases in North America

“High interest in standards and a flurry of re-formulation activity is occurring in North America since Whole Foods announced its new guidelines for personal care products a year ago,” explains Organic Monitor.

So far, the NPA standard for natural cosmetics is the most successful. As far as organics are concerned, the NSF ANSI 305 ‘contains organic’ standard is gaining currency, but the USDA NOP organic standard remains popular in spite of it designed for organic agricultural food products.

Thus, three separate standards and logos are gaining momentum in North America, and a fourth one is expected since Natrue and NSF ANSI have announced the launch of a new natural cosmetics standard last month. “With this new initiative, Natrue has become embroiled in two major standard battles in Europe and North America.”

Proliferation hits other regions

There are currently no local certification schemes in the fast-growing Asian and Latin American markets for natural cosmetics. Local players use European schemes to fill the void, but are also supporting the development of national or regional certification, like in Australia with the OFC [1] and ACO [2] organic cosmetic standards.

In developing countries, governmental authorities could play an important role in advocating or introducing natural and organic cosmetic standards, according to Organic Monitor. Taiwan and Brazil could support the development of certification through local standards.

“The proliferation in seals and logos, especially at the national level, could widen divisions in an already fragmented natural cosmetics industry,” Organic Monitor says.